Matteo Giglio - Italy

Should you want to find out about Matteo Giglio, just take a look at his thorough website. We can “merely” say that he was born in 1973 and he is an all-rounder, a mountaineer and something else, as well: a mountain guide, ski instructor and journalist, working for several magazines and author of Effimeri Barbagli, the monumental Aosta Valley icefall guidebook. He describes icefalls, and is clearly an active climber, too: he onsighted up to 7b+ and reached 8a with several attempts – his top grade on ice has been 7 – and has also been highly active in all disciplines, with prestigious repetitions and openings everywhere, close to home and as far as Sicily as well. Mont Blanc is, however, his playground, having fun on routes such as Voyage selon Gulliver on the perfect Grand Capucin granite, or the mythical Bonatti-Vaucher route on the Grandes Jorasses, where mixed climbing is a true challenge. On this route, climbed together with Arnaud Clavel, Matteo brought his favourite “toys” along, the Cassin X-Dream ice-axes.

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